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150 ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF MONTE PELMO BY JOHN BALL
14 - 17 SEPT 07


Stephen with the Friuli team on the summit of Monte Pelmo.

Just back from a fantastic weekend in the Dolomites. The occasion was the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of Monte Pelmo by an Irishman called John Ball, who went on to found the Alpine Club and become its first president.

Married to a local girl from Bassano, the Irish lawyer, MP, botanist and mountaineer was fascinated by the Eastern Alps. On 19 September 1957, he hired a cacciatore – a hunter – from the Val de Cadore, to show him the way along a secret ledge leading to the upper bowl of the limestone peak. The hunter couldn’t see the point of climbing mountains, so Ball continued alone to the summit of the first major peak to be climbed in the Dolomites.


Ball's Ledge traverses for several hundred metres through huge cliffs.

It was all a bit different last Saturday, with about two hundred people congregating on Monte Pelmo, with huge traffic jams on ‘Ball’s Ledge’ – a spectacular walkway following a fault line through huge cliffs.


Sarah from Friuli on Ball's Ledge. The fixed ropes are not normally there: the guides installed
 them specially for the anniversary crowds and removed them on the Saturday evening.
 

Beyond the ledge, scree slopes lead to what was a glacier and is now a bare rocky amphitheatre. Then you break onto a final rather spectacular ridge, with stupendous views straight down the 3,000 ft high North Face. Stunning summit, with lovely views over the whole of the Dolomites.


Summit traffic jam, with the Civetta behind, on the far side of the Val di Zoldo.

Then back down to the Rifugio de Venezia, for beer and pasta. Then back down to San Vito di Cadore, where I had to give a speech at the evening ceremony. Rosie arrived late that night and on the Sunday we were shown round Pieve di Cadore – the birthplace of Titian – and the city of Belluno, where the great Bill Tilman is still revered as a hero of the Second World War resistance.

On Monday I returned to Venice for the first time in thirty-five years. It was Rosie’s first visit and she loved it. We will have to go back. I was hoping to stay on for some more rock climbing, but got jittery about my bad knee, which I damaged last week at Victoria Station, doing an unintentional telemark turn whilst slipping on a wet floor. Now I am nursing the knee, hoping that it will sort itself out in time for Scotland next week. A big thank you to the President of Belluno and the local branch of the Club Alpino Italiano, who made our trip possible and who entertained us royally, with much feasting.


 
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Copyright 2006 Stephen Venables