The first time Stephen roped up for a climb was in the Swiss Alps in 1967. For him the Alps are home, and he has climbed and skied there nearly every year of his life. However, like most ambitious mountaineers, he was always keen to explore further afield and in 1977 he made his first expedition outside Europe, to the Afghan Hindu Kush. That expedition – pioneering new routes up little-known mountains – set the tone for all his future expeditioning and even when he climbed Everest it was by a new route up the mountain’s biggest, least known face.

Most of Stephen’s expeditions have been to the mountains of Central Asia, but he has also climbed in Peru, Bolivia, Chile, South Georgia, Southern Africa and East Africa. Over the years he has enjoyed climbing with some of the world’s finest exploratory mountaineers, including Harish Kapadia, Chris Bonington, Ed Webster, John Roskelley, Jim Wickwire, Dick Renshaw, Tim Macartney-Snape, Conrad Anker and Reinhold Messner.

In 2007 Stephen hopes to spend time climbing in the Alps. In 2008 he will be leading a 20th anniversary expedition to the Kama valley, on the east side of Everest.

Ed Webster on his Tyrolean traverse over the Jaws of Doom, Everest Kangshung Face © Stephen Venables
 

2008 Expedition

In the autumn of 2008 Stephen will be marking the 20th anniversary of his Everest climb by leading an expedition to the Kama valley, on the east, Tibetan, side of Everest. Plans are still being finalised, but the idea is invite both trekkers keen to visit this beautiful valley and experienced climbers who will stay in the valley for ten days or so to explore some of the lower peaks surrounding Everest. Provisional dates are September 18 to October 14 2008. Please contact Stephen for details if you are interested in taking part.  See additional information here.

see list of past expeditions